Often overlooked by the standard traveller, the rock fortress of Yapahuwa was once the capital of Sri Lanka and the guardian of the Sacred Tooth Relic. Its centrepiece is an ornamental stone staircase of exquisite detail, reminiscent of Cambodian architecture, leading to a breezy summit with commanding views. It is a destination defined by its quietude and the haunting beauty of a kingdom that briefly flared and faded.